All good things must unfortunately come to end and today marks the end of my Lucky Girl Dress blog tour. But don’t fret! In this post you’ll get an easy pattern hack and isn’t that the best part of buying from independent designers like me? I thought so! But first we have some business to discuss! Drum roll please….. The winner of the fabulous fabric pack from Riley Blake and the free copy of the Lucky Girl Dress is….
Congrats and I can’t wait to see your version of the dress!
Moving right along, let’s first do a round up of all the amazing bloggers that joined me on my first ever pattern launch tour! I can’t thank everyone enough, they all did an amazing job and of course we can’t forget my lovely tour sponsor, Riley Blake! I love love love the quality of their knits and it’s the perfect fabric for such a snuggly little dress.
Now to the collar hack! Making the hood from the pattern is super simple but if you’re in a pinch adding a collar can shave off a lot of time cutting and sewing. Not to mention it’s an easy fix for toddler hood-phobia. (I thought it was just Marian but it turns out its quite universal.)
My version has a cute little V shape detail in the front (that also looks great on adult garments!) but if you’re not in to that the instructions also tell you how to create a “regular” collar. Another thing to note, I have a chart with measurements to cut out the knit trim but unfortunately you have to use it as more of a guide than a rule. In order for the trim to lay flat on the neck you have to make it smaller than the neck hole and stretch it as you sew. The unfortunate part is that there is no exact science to finding out how much smaller to make the trim. I based these measurements on the Riley Blake fabric I was using and the trim is all 1″ less than the neck hole with 3/8″ seam allowance added. If the bodice fabric is puckered once you sew on the trim then the trim was too short. If the trim stands up and doesn’t lay flat on the neck then it was too long. Different fabric weights and elasticity can effect how the trim fits so you may have to rip a few seams and tweek here and there but that’s just the nature of knits, am I right?
I have all of the instructions laid out below or if you prefer you can click here to download a PDF version if you’re like me and can’t read instructions on the computer screen. Let’s jump right in and tweek our Lucky Girl!
And don’t forget to share your dresses on Instagram with the tag #LuckyGirlDress!
Lucky Girl Dress Collar Hack
When cutting out the pattern, do not cut the hood pieces. Instead, cut out 1 piece of trim in the size dress you are making based on the chart above.
From the original pattern steps #1 and #2 are the same
Skip steps #3 through #6
Steps #7 through #14 are the same
15. Find the center of the front and back necklines just as instructed but then match those center pins up to find the center of each side. The center of the side is NOT in the center of the sleeve, it is actually in front of the sleeve. Set aside.
15B. Pin the 2″ sides of the trim together, right sides facing, and stitch with a 3/8″ seam. Unpin and press the seam open. Fold the trim down (just like with the cuffs in step #12 of the original pattern), wrong sides facing, match up the raw edges, and press.
15C. Use the seam as a starting point to find the center opposite the seam, and then the center of each side dividing the collar up into quarters.
15D. Pin the raw edges of the collar to the raw edge of the neck hole on the right side of the bodice. Match the seam on the collar up with pin in the center of the front bodice piece.
If you are NOT doing the “V” detail, match the seam in the collar up with the pin in the center of the BACK bodice piece.
15E. Stitch around with the 3/8″ seam stretching the collar as its being sewn so it matches up with the neck hole (remember the collar piece is smaller than the neck hole).
15F. Finish the raw edge with either a serger or zig zag stitch and then press the seam down into the bodice. Top stitch the seam flat, 1/8″ away from the seam on the bodice.
If you are NOT doing the “V” detail, skip the rest of these added steps and move on to step #18 from the original pattern.
15G. With a seam ripper, carefully open up the seam in the collar to create the “V” detail.
15H. Once the seam is open, hand stitch the opening on either side with a tiny tiny ladder stitch and press flat.
I keep meaning to do a full post about a ladder stitch but I just haven’t got around to it yet. In the mean time, I found this tutorial that will help you out if you’re not familiar with it. I use a ladder stitch for so many things that it’s a very important skill to have in your repertoire.
Skip steps #16 and #17 from the original instructions.
Steps #18 through #20 are the same.